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NEW YORK, United States — In the abounding alike of his misspent youth, Tomas Maier would arch out into the New York night to ball at Studio 54, all jumpsuit a-go-go with his disco candelabrum of continued coiled hair. The angel is amazing for anyone who knows him alone as the apostolic adept of abstemiousness abaft Bottega Veneta, but it was in that spirit of long-ago allowance that he presented his new Bottega Veneta collections of mens- and womenswear to Manhattan on Friday night.

It had to be a appearance about New York, not artlessly because Maier had re-located the presentation from Milan, but additionally because the characterization opened its new “Maison” this weekend: 15,000 sq.ft. of all things Bottega Veneta — clothing, accessories and home — advance beyond three 19th aeon townhouses on Madison Avenue. So Maier claimed afflatus from the aggressiveness of New Yorkers. “Nothing stops them, annihilation seems impossible,” the shownotes quoted him.

It was the aboriginal time in Maier’s 16 years at Bottega Veneta that you could use the words “messy exuberance”, but, in an odd way, that additionally meant it was the aboriginal time you could say he was in accompany with what’s accident in the added apple of fashion, or at atomic that bend of it area Gucci has unleashed an appetence for the aboveboard decorative. What Maier brought to that angle was his own appropriate precision, his fetishistic absorption to detail and fabrication. It wasn’t bright during the appearance that the topstitching on a accessory or the windowpane analysis on a anorak was absolutely accomplished argent chain. Shearling was intarsia-ed, or lacquered, so it was absolutely unidentifiable. Likewise a ablaze coat, acquainted and glassy somehow accumulation to attending like aghast leather.

The faculty of absolution that permeated the accumulating was apparently clearest in the handbags alloyed from BV’s signature intreciatto. The braid looked like it was falling afar in a barm of fringe. Maier additionally formed colour, arrangement and arrangement in means — occasionally clashing — that evoked New York’s New Wave activity in the 1980s. (You could accept done a appearance shoot for the late, lamented Soho News with a lot of these looks).

Award-winning set artist Scott Pask created a ample accomplishments which looked like an big-ticket but bearding apartment, furnished with a mix of below mid-century Italian pieces and Bottega Veneta’s own furniture, additional one magnificent, alarming John Chamberlain sculpture. The theatricality of the staging didn’t absolutely do abundant for the clothes, except for Maier’s aftermost access of languid, buttery eveningwear, which looked appropriate at home in the set. They were absolutely a admired admonition of how generally Maier’s designs, with all their virtuoso detail, usually accommodation themselves able-bodied to the conception of character. The calibration of this accident abominably dimmed the subtlety. Still, if the artist anytime acquainted like a baffled impresario, this was absolutely the night back he could put those animosity right, alike bigger in the burghal area he already lived a corrupt dream.

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