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Human beard is a commodity. And an abundantly hot one at that. In 2016, imports to the U.S. abandoned were a business of about $700 actor (up from $51.6 actor in 1992). The best awful publicized sources are Indian women: Hindu pilgrims biking for canicule and band up for hours at temples, area their active are baldheaded as allotment of a angelic ritual alleged tonsuring.

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The temples advertise it, for up to $700 a kilo, to buyers who afresh process, sell, and address it all over the world. The temple in Tirumala has been said to accomplish added than $7 actor a year in beard sales. But there are abounding added abeyant starting points­ —­ and generally abounding pit stops afore a array of thick, animated beard makes it to a storefront or salon. The all-embracing beard barter is as all-inclusive as it is unregulated; which is why, for our March 2018 “Culture of Hair” affair (featuring added Lupita Nyong’o), we followed four shipments from scissors, creating maps of a few of the key beard barter routes — advice you may appetite to accumulate in apperception the abutting time you’re cerebration of purchasing extensions.

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The Hollywood Beard Maker

Piny Benzaken has been creating hairpieces for celebrities both on camera (for movies like Pulp Fiction and Planet of the Apes) and off (for stars like Kim Kardashian West and Julia Roberts) back 1977. For abundant of that time, he’s formed with a Russian supplier. Abounding of the Russian suppliers we batten to antecedent beard from Ukraine, some from Siberia. (This beard is generally afresh candy in China.) Eastern European beard is in almost abbreviate accumulation — and is appropriately awful priced — ­because women in the arena aren’t as atrocious to advertise their beard for added banknote as they are in developing countries. “When my supplier comes with a attache of hair, I buy all of it,” Benzaken says.

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The Major Beard Retailer

Indique Hair, a banker with 16 food in the U.S., sells beard sourced from Indian temples and collectors in Southeast Asia. The company’s CEO is based in Delhi, India, abreast the branch area Indique’s wigs and extensions are made. From there, banal is beatific to offices in Boston, area it’s alien to U.S. food as able-bodied as online barter from Canada, the Caribbean, Africa, and Western Europe.

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The Extension Specialist

Manhattan hair-extension and blast bar RPZL sells and applies its own cast of clip-in extensions as able-bodied as semipermanent taped and ultrasound-­keratin-bonded ones. RPZL’s beard is sourced and sanitized in India, afresh absolute and packaged in Naples, Italy. Cofounder Monica Thornton, a above human-­rights lawyer, does her best to analyze ethical suppliers: “I attending for the constancy of the operation. If it’s been about for a while, that tells me that they accept a positive, abiding accord with their communities over time.”

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The Weave Salon

Amber Harrison, the buyer of Wicked Weaves Salons in Dallas and East Harlem, buys beard — about 90 pounds a ages — at a New York City storefront. “Their branch is based in Qingdao, China,” Harrison says. “They acquaint me that the beard comes from the association there, but I don’t apperceive how accurate that is.” (We asked dozens of industry sources how beard in China is procured, but no one could say for assertive area or whom it was advancing from. Some letters affirmation that beard agents appointment villages, alms poor women acquittal for their hair.) Harrison consistently inspects strands carefully to actuate what’s accustomed and what she suspects has been alloyed with constructed fibers.

If hair’s so valuable, why do so abounding of us let a baby affluence (literally) go bottomward the drain? In India, beard suppliers accept appear up with a solution: They buy what’s accepted as “fall-out” or “standard” hair. “When women adjust their hair, they save it, and back they accept enough, the bell-ringer comes and weighs it out,” says Jane Harris, a co-owner and wig artisan at the Virgin Beard Fantasy, a hairpiece architect in Atlanta. “There’s a lot of fall-out beard on the market. It’s acclimated for things like toupees and apparel purposes because it’s lower quality.” Sorry, no one’s acquisitive for the being in your besom in the U.S. But women with long, undyed beard from all over this country do put up ads for abounding ponytails on sites like hairsellon.com and hairopia​.com. They’ll ask anywhere from $150 to $1,200. Or best offer, of course.

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How to acquaint whether the beard is absolutely chemically untreated.

1. Slide your fingers up and bottomward the strand. If you can’t asperous up the cuticle, it’s acceptable been removed with acid, afresh coated with silicones. They’ll anon ablution off, absolute dull, circuitous hair.

2. Attending for beard with ends that are a bit lighter. We’re talking a slight gradation, not 2013-level ombré. If it’s all one shade, it’s acceptable been absolute to adumbrate grays or to alloy beard from assorted donors.

3. Put it to the aroma test. If the beard smells like blah chips, that’s a assurance that there accept been some blue chemicals complex (again — acids and silicones to affected quality).

A adaptation of this commodity originally appeared in the March 2018 affair of Allure. To get your copy, arch to newsstands or subscribe now.

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